Former Conservative minister Richard Holden is leading a campaign to secure protected status for traditional pie and mash as a celebration of the “original fast food”. Mr Holden and producers have made representations to the Department for Environment, Food and Rural Affairs (Defra) about an application for Traditional Speciality Guaranteed (TSG) status for the dish.
TSG is a quality scheme that protects the names of food and agricultural products that are made using traditional methods or ingredients. Bramley Apple pie filling and Cornish pasties are some of the foods protected under the scheme. Mr Holden, the MP for Basildon and Billericay, will lead a parliamentary debate in Westminster Hall on Tuesday to further press the case for the “cracking” products to get the “recognition they deserve”.
Traditional pie and mash may be given TSG status if there is agreement between producers on the recipe that would need to be follow to use the name in future, Defra said. The recipe involves a minced beef pie served with mashed potatoes and a parsley sauce known as liquor.
The former Tory party chairman said he has written to more than 40 MPs who have a pie and mash shop in their constituency. He is confident TSG status will be granted, adding: “I don’t start campaigns I can’t win.”
“It’s part of a campaign to celebrate and really promote pie and mash, which has spread out from its beginnings in central and east London, down the Thames Gateway and out into the world,” he said. “I’ve been to these pie and mash shops, they make them on site, every day, they’re the original fast food, pies made in advance and they are made by artisans, it’s a nice thing and I think it’s something that’s been a bit underappreciated.”
He said talks are already happening with Defra and he is “hopeful that over time that will move further in the right direction”.
Asked about his experiences of eating pie and mash, Mr Holden replied: “Cracking. Original pie and mash was an eel pie but when the Thames was polluted during the industrial revolution basically eels were no longer there so they switched to having mince in it.
“The crucial thing is they kept the liquor from the original eel pie, which is why you’ve got the parsley sauce because traditionally parsley liquor would always have gone with a fish dish.
“Personally I prefer mine also with vinegar, some people have chilli vinegar – it’s not for me. It’s not malted vinegar, it’s a specific sort of vinegar that they have with it.”
Environment minister Daniel Zeichner, replying to a written question from Mr Holden, said: “Defra officials have already discussed the application process for Traditional Speciality Guaranteed status with a representative of the producers.
“They are clear that an application for TSG status requires agreement on the recipe that producers would need to follow to use the name in future.
“They also understand that all those wishing to use the name would need periodic verification of their practices.
“Once a formal application is submitted, a full assessment of the case can be made.”
To add more value to the readers, it’s important to understand the cultural and historical significance of traditional pie and mash. The dish has been a staple in London’s East End for centuries, dating back to the 19th century when it was a popular meal among the working-class population. The combination of savory minced beef pie, creamy mashed potatoes, and parsley liquor sauce has become a beloved comfort food for many Londoners.
In addition to its cultural importance, traditional pie and mash also represents a connection to the past and a link to artisanal food production. As Mr. Holden mentioned, these pies are made fresh daily by skilled artisans, preserving culinary traditions that have been passed down through generations. By seeking protected status for pie and mash, there is an opportunity to not only celebrate the dish but also to ensure its preservation for future generations to enjoy.
Furthermore, the campaign for TSG status highlights the importance of recognizing and protecting traditional food products that are made using authentic methods and ingredients. By granting this status to pie and mash, it can help differentiate genuine, traditional dishes from mass-produced imitations, supporting local producers and maintaining culinary heritage.
Overall, the efforts to secure protected status for traditional pie and mash are not just about recognizing a dish but about honoring a culinary tradition that holds cultural and historical significance. With continued support and advocacy, there is hope that this beloved comfort food will receive the recognition it deserves and continue to be enjoyed by generations to come.
